A bus from London to Sydney passes through many exotic places. On the Ozbus Internet booking form my eyes passed over exotic places like Kathmandu, Quetta and Dali. But only one place caused my involuntary action to click Book Now - Iran.
I was excited by Iran. Not sure why. Maybe because it was a dark horse, no one really knows much about it and the western media only demonises it. I don't agree with it's fundamentalist Islamic government, it's Iran's sense of mystery that I find appealing. It may be horrible, it may be beautiful. Who knows? I was about to find out.
About 30 km past Dogubeyazit we reached the Iranian border and were greeted with a large billboard of Allatoyah Khomeini's stern face above the words Welcome to the Islamic Republic of Iran. For me the words welcome and the Allatoyah's stern face didn't mesh.
We spent five hours at the border. Why? Not sure. Maybe the guards were bored. Once we got through we met our state appointed tour guide. He was a tall, grey, middle aged Iranian who looked eerily like Sean Connery. "Good Afternoon, my name is Hussein" he boomed into the microphone. "Yes, I know I share the name of Saddam but that is because I was given a fucking Arab name!" He was hilarious, It was like he just learned to use the word fuck. It was his new toy he wanted to show off and he littered it through everything.
Hussein was happy to speak to westerners and pleas that Iranians were good people suffering under an Islamic government. He said that life was better under the Shah as it was somewhat western and democratic but when the Ayatollah Khomeini led revolution hit the country in 1979, Iranians suffered.
AyatollahKhomeini
Hussein told us government restrictions include:
1. No access to foreign networking websites such as Facebook, Bebo and Blogspot. (Hence my delayed blog.)
2. Iranian banks are not connected to foreign networks. (My visa card doesn't work.)
3. No foreign books are allowed in. (I secretly gave Hussein a worn copy of Catch 22.)
4. Iranians aren't allowed to leave the country. well, technically they can, but it's very difficult. They have to get a signed letter from the police of their intended destination saying they are leaving for a valid reason. The Iranian government then asses whether the traveller has enough assets to ensure their return to Iran. Then, and only then are they allowed to leave the country.
5. No unmarried couples are allowed to be together unless they are escorted by a family member. Hussein told the story of his 20 year old son who started dating a girl. Hussein told his son that she was not to come over his house without him there. Hussein went away for the weekend and, on the third date, his son snuck her into his house after dark. The neighbours reported them to the police and the government told Hussein that his son must marry her or face prison time. Not to be a young man in prison, Hussian's son married her and they both received 60 lashes from the government.
6. There is no homosexuality. Seriously. The government recently stated that not one Iranian is a homosexual. Maybe their scientists proved it? In Tehran two 17 year old boys were recently executed for sodomy. Maybe they were the last homosexuals?
7. Women have no rights. By law they are considered half human and must cover there skin at all times (only showing their faces and hands). Women have no birth control, must be escorted everywhere by a relative, must ride at the back of the bus and cannot shake men's hands.
So after Hussein finished I muttered " Oh shit, I've wandered into a dictatorship".
Having said that, the actual Iranian people are beautiful, welcoming, friendly and surprisingly tolerant. People would stop us on the street, alarmed at western faces and ask us if we are enjoying Iran. Also, the scenery is stunning and the petrol is cheap (for $1US the bus received 200 liters/ 50 gallons.)
Also their president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is a very inter sting character. He is intelligent and articulate, and although some of his ideals are dodgy (ban on homosexuality and holocaust denial) his thoughts on the west are engaging and thought provoking. Not sure if I agree with them, but it's definatly food for thought.
Mahmoud Ahmadinejad
I'm going to enjoy my time in this dictatorship.
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